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ANGLO-INDIAN RECIPE BOOKS by Bridget White

ANGLO-INDIAN RECIPE BOOKS by Bridget White
ANGLO-INDIAN RECIPE BOOKS by Bridget White

NO COPYING ALLOWED FROM THIS SITE

All the recipes and Photographs on this Site are old Family Recipes and tried and tested by the Author. Please feel free to try out these old recipes, and relish them, but desist from copying and using on other sites without the prior permission of Bridget White-Kumar. Any infringement would amount to Plagarism and infringement of Copy Right punishable by Law

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Thursday, January 12, 2017

Bridget White-Kumar, author of six Anglo-Indian cookbooks, reflects on culture and tradition from the Colonial Anglo-Indian Era - Food Lovers Magazine Winter 2015


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SPECIAL FEATURE - food lovers magazine winter 2015

Preserving Colonial Flavours

Bridget White-Kumar, author of six Anglo-Indian cookbooks, reflects on culture and tradition from the Colonial Anglo-Indian Era.
I hail from a charming little mining town called Kolar Gold Fields, in the erstwhile Mysore State, now a part of Karnataka. I was born into a well-known Anglo-Indian family in KGF, tracing our roots back to British, Portuguese and Dutch ancestry. The Kolar Gold Mines were owned and operated by the British mining firm of John Taylor & Sons for almost a century.
 Four generations of my family lived and worked in the KGF Mines. The town had an old-world bonhomie about it, and was known for its affectionate and warm people. It was unique in its secular and egalitarian society. KGF was known as ‘Little England’ due to its colonial ambience, and European and Anglo-Indian population. Our lives were greatly influenced by the culture and ways of the Raj.
 There was no dearth of British goods in the 1940s and 50s. Goods were imported from England and sold through The English Ware House, Spencer’s Stores and various clubs in KGF. For as long as I can remember, there was always a good supply of Kraft Cheese, Tuna Fish, Polson’s Butter, Colman’s Mustard, Sardines, Baked Beans, Jams, Jellies and Quaker Oats, in our home.
Our food habits were typically Anglo-Indian. Breakfast was normally a bowl of porridge, toast with butter, jam and eggs. Sundays saw sausages, bacon or ham on the table. Lunch was a typical Anglo-Indian meal consisting of steamed rice, beef curry with vegetables, ‘pepper water,’ and a vegetable side-dish. Dinner was always dinner rolls with a meat dish; it was an unwritten rule that no one ate rice at dinnertime. We ate beef or mutton every day, fish invariably on Wednesdays and Fridays, and either Pork, Chicken or Duck on Sundays.

quote1(1)  My mum made asimple and delicious dessert, Bread and Butter Pudding, practically every Sunday. She followed an old handwritten recipe that was handed down to her from her grandmother. It was real comfort food; on a cold rainy night, I still feel nostalgic for my mum’s warm Bread Pudding. quote2(1)
My mum was an exceptional cook; even simple dishes tasted delicious when she cooked them. She was versatile and imaginative in the kitchen. She would improvise and turn out the most delicious curries with whatever ingredients were on hand. Our Ayah would grind the masalas for the curry on the grinding stone; in those days everything was prepared fresh and from scratch. Ready-made curry powders were unheard of. And since we had no gas or kerosene stoves back then, every dish was cooked over a wood-fired stove, which only added to the wonderful taste!
Lunch on the weekends were special. Saturday lunch was invariably Mince Ball Curry, Saffron-Coconut Rice and Devil Chutney. On Saturdays, we only had half-days at school, so we were back home by 12.30 pm, ravenously hungry and we’d be assailed by the delicious aromas of mum’s cooking even before we reached our gate.

Cauliflower Foogath
Cauliflower Foogath

The mince for the Ball Curry, had to be just right. The meat was brought fresh from the Butcher Shop, cut into pieces, washed and then minced at home. Like every Anglo-Indian family, we had our own meat-mincing machine, which was fixed to the kitchen table. The freshly ground meat from the machine was then mixed with the required ingredients, shaped into even balls, then slowly dropped into the boiling gravy and left to simmer in a rich coriander and coconut sauce. The curry was famously known as ‘bad-word curry.’ The word ‘ball’ was considered a bad word in those days, and family elders wouldn’t dare utter it for fear of committing a sin. 
The Saffron or Yellow Coconut Rice was always prepared with freshly squeezed coconut milk and butter. Like the meat mincer, the coconut scraper was another important appendage of the Anglo-Indian kitchen, fixed firmly to the other side of the kitchen worktable. Sometimes, two fresh coconuts would be broken and grated for the Coconut Rice. The grated coconut had to be soaked in hot water and the thick milk extracted. For every cup of rice, twice the quantity of coconut milk was added – a little more would make the rice ‘pish pash’ or over-cooked, and a little less would leave the rice under-cooked. The raw rice and coconut milk would then be simmered with ghee or butter, saffron, bay leaves and a few whole spices of cinnamon, cardamom and cloves till the rice was cooked perfectly.

A recipe book from the early 20th Century, handed down to Bridget from her mother.
A recipe book from the early 20th Century, handed down to Bridget from her mother.

My favourite dessert was Bread and Butter Pudding. My mum made this simple and delicious dessert practically every Sunday. She followed an old handwritten recipe that was handed down to her from her grandmother. It was real comfort food; on a cold rainy night, I still feel nostalgic for my mum’s warm Bread Pudding. 
The Anglo-Indian community has a long history that can be traced back to the early part of the 16th Century, to the advent of the Portuguese, Dutch and Spanish, who came to India to trade in spices. Towards the latter half of the 18th century, the British made their presence felt with the establishment of the East India Company. With inter-marrying, a new multi-racial community came into existence, which evolved into the Anglo-Indian community.

quote1(1)  In a world fast morphing into a Global Village, many of the old traditional colonial dishes are not prepared in Anglo-Indian homes, as recipes have died with the older generation who cooked with intuition and memory rather than from written notes. quote2(1)

Anglo-Indian cuisine therefore evolved over many hundred years as a result of reinterpreting a quintessentially western cuisine by assimilating ingredients and cooking techniques from all over the Indian sub-continent. Thus a new contemporary cuisine came into existence making it truly ‘Anglo’ and ‘Indian’ in nature; neither too bland nor too spicy, but with a distinct flavour of its own. It became a direct reflection of the new colonial population.
 The British did not like Indian food and taught their khansamas to prepare dishes from their own hometowns. However, over a period of time, a few local ingredients were added to the dishes, and they experimented with making puddings and sweets using local ingredients. Their soups were seasoned with cumin and pepper, roasts were cooked in whole spices like cloves, pepper and cinnamon, and rissoles and croquettes flavored with turmeric and spices. Mulligatawny Soup, Meat Jalfraze, Devilled Beef and Pork were some of these early innovations.
 Anglo-Indian Cuisine is a gourmet’s delight mostly because it makes use of spices like pepper, bay leaves, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Indian garnishes like chillies, cumin, coriander, turmeric, ginger, garlic, and vinegar are also added in moderation. Yogurt and milk are used in certain preparations to offset pungency. Many dishes have rhyming alliterative names like Doldol, Kalkal, Ding-Ding and Posthole! The very nomenclature of these dishes is unique and original, and synonymous only with the Anglo-Indian community. 
However over a period of time, Anglo-Indian cooking became more Indian than British and more regional. Local ingredients and flavours of a particular region were incorporated in the dishes while the basic ingredients remained the same throughout the country. Coconut-based curries were popular in Anglo-Indian dishes in the south, while mustard oil and fresh water fish were popular ingredients in the Anglo-Indian dishes of Calcutta and West Bengal. And a strong Mughlai influence seeped into Anglo-Indian dishes cooked in Lucknow and parts of North of India. But today, in a world fast morphing into a Global Village, many of the old traditional colonial dishes are not prepared in Anglo-Indian homes, as recipes have died with the older generation who cooked with intuition and memory rather than from written notes. With the intention of preserving those authentic tastes and flavours, I have published six recipe books exclusively on Anglo-Indian cuisine. This personal collection of recipes was compiled with the intent of reviving the old tastes of the colonial era, and thereby preserving the culinary culture and heritage of the Anglo-Indian Community.
Photography by Krishanu Chatterjee  
Posted: January 6, 2017

Monday, January 09, 2017

ANGLO-INDIAN PORK VINDALOO




ANGLO-INDIAN PORK VINDALOO
Vindaloo is a legacy of the Portuguese  to Anglo-Indian Cuisine. It comes from the Portuguese word “Vinha De Alhos” – “Vinha”  meaning wine or wine vinegar, and "Alhos", meaning garlic.  i.e. from the 2 main ingredients in it. It was originally a red wine and garlic based watery stew made with pork or meat in Portugal. However after the Portuguese introduced it in India, it was completely revamped with the addition of spices and chilies, and over the years it has become one of the spiciest and most popular curry dishes all over the world. As the Portuguese first colonized Goa it became a famous curry dish in Goa originally.  The locals added a variety of  spices and chillies and vinegar was then substituted for wine. Thus was created a new “Fusion dish” which swiftly spread and became popular throughout the country with the members of the community
 It can be prepared with any kind of meat such as Beef, Mutton, Lamb, pork, poultry, seafood and also vegetables such as Brinjals or Egg Plant, potatoes, peas etc). The dish is not as thick as a Korma and does not have as much gravy as other curries. It also requires quite a lot of oil in its preparation and tastes wonderful if eaten a day or two after it is cooked since the vinegar and other flavours soak into the dish. The pungency of the dish can be reduced or increased according to taste by adding or lessening the chillie powder. However, care should be taken not to lose the vinegar flavour, because Vindaloo get its special taste only because of the vinegar in it. Makes an excellent combination with Anglo-Indian Coconut Rice. Note: Take care not to garnish the dish with corriander etc as it would detract from the taste of the dish. (The green chillies in the photograph are just for show :-) ) 

Serves 6   Preparation and cooking Time: 45 minutes
Ingredients

1 kg pork cut into medium size pieces
3 potatoes peeled and cut into halves
3 large onions sliced finely
2 teaspoons chillie powder
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
2 tablespoons oil   
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons ginger garlic paste
2 small sticks cinnamon
4 cloves
2 cardamoms
3 tablespoons vinegar

Boil the pork and potatoes with a little salt and sufficient water till tender. Remove and keep aside.

Heat oil in a pan and fry the onions till light brown. Add the ginger garlic paste and sauté for about 5 minutes on medium heat. Add the chillie powder, turmeric powder, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, vinegar and salt. Fry for a couple of minutes. Now add the cooked pork and potatoes along with the soup and simmer for about 10 minutes. Serve with bread or rice.

Friday, January 06, 2017

BRIDGET WHITE-KUMAR – RECIPE BOOK AUTHOR AND FOOD CONSULTANT –WINNER OF GOURMAND WORLD COOK AWARDS 2012

BRIDGET WHITE-KUMAR – RECIPE BOOK AUTHOR AND FOOD CONSULTANT –WINNER OF GOURMAND WORLD COOK AWARDS 2012
 Bridget White-Kumar is a Cookery Book Author, Food Consultant and Culinary Historian. She has authored 7 Recipe books on Anglo-Indian Cuisine. Her area of expertise is in Colonial Anglo-Indian Food and she has gone through a lot of effort in reviving the old forgotten dishes of the Colonial British Raj Era. Her 7 Recipe books are a means of preserving for posterity, the very authentic tastes and flavours of Colonial ‘Anglo’ India, besides recording for future generations, the unique heritage of the pioneers of Anglo-Indian Cuisine. 
Her Recipe book ANGLO-INDIAN CUISINE – A LEGACY OF FLAVOURS FROM THE PAST was selected as ‘Winner from India’ Under the Category: ‘BEST CULINARY HISTORY BOOK IN INDIA by GOURMAND INTERNATIONAL SPAIN, GOURMAND WORLD COOK BOOKS AWARDS 2012. This prestigious Award is ‘THE OSCARS’ for Cook Book Writers. Awards are given every year for various categories and genres ie for Cook Book Authors, Cook Books, Chefs, Wine makers, etc selected from all over the World and she won this award in 2012.
Being an Independent Freelance Consultant on Colonial Anglo-Indian Cuisine, Bridget has assisted many Restaurants, Hotels and Clubs in Bangalore and elsewhere with her knowledge of Colonial Anglo-Indian Food besides helping them to revamp and reinvent their Menus by introducing new dishes which are a combination of both Continental and Anglo-Indian. Many of them are now following the Recipes and guidance given by her and the dishes are enjoyed by both Indian and Foreign Guests.
She has conducted Cooking Workshops and Training Sessions on Colonial Cuisine of the British Raj, for the staff at The Oberoi Mumbai, Sujan Luxury Rajmahal Palace Jaipur and Sher Bagh Ranthambore, The Bangalore Club, The Taj Conemara Chennai, The Taj West End Bangalore, Vivanta by Taj Whitefield, Cochrane Place Kurseong Darjeeling, Bow barracks Bangalore, etc, etc., besides conducting and assisting at Cooking Demos and Anglo-Indian Food festivals at various places.
Bridget also conducts Cooking Classes and Demos on Anglo-Indian Cuisine in Bangalore and various places across the country such as Clubs, Restaurants, Women’s Groups, Corporate Offices, etc. Her One-of-a-kind Interactive and Hands on Culinary Training Workshops in Bangalore where participants learn the fine art of preparing delicious Colonial Anglo-Indian Dishes have been very well received and attended. She is always ready to share and talk about Recipes and Food.
These are the books authored by her.
 1. Anglo-Indian Cuisine - A Legacy of Flavours from the Past
2. Anglo-Indian Delicacies
3. A Collection of Anglo-Indian Roasts, Casseroles and Bakes.
4. The Anglo-Indian Festive Hamper.
5. The Anglo-Indian Snack Box.
6. Vegetarian Delicacies
7. Simple Egg Delicacies
8. A Collection of Simple Anglo-Indian Recipes
9. Kolar Gold Fields Down Memory Lane.

To order copies of the books she can be contacted on +919845571254
Email bridgetkumar@yahoo.com The books are also available online on Amazon, Barnes and Noble, etc 
 Websites:

Tuesday, January 03, 2017

OKRA / LADY FINGERS PEPPER FRY



















OKRA  / LADY FINGERS PEPPER FRY
This is a simple Vegetarian side dish for lunch that is popular in many Anglo-Indian homes. Lady Fingers or Okra is also known as 'Bandy Coy' in Anglo-Indian parlance. The Tamil word ‘KAI’ meaning ‘vegetable’ eventually became ‘Coy’ in Anglo-Indian English and Vegetables such as ‘BANDICOY’ (lady fingers), Snake Coy (Snake Gourd), Peking Coy (Ridge Gourd) etc were some examples of these ‘Tamilised’ English words that were part and parcel of Anglo-Indian vocabulary. It makes a lovely combination with steamed rice and any meat curry 

Serves 6    Preparation Time 45 minutes
Ingredients
½ kg okra / lady fingers,
2 onions chopped finely,
a few curry leaves,           
1 teaspoon ginger and garlic paste,
2 teaspoons black pepper powder,
½ teaspoon turmeric powder,
2 tablespoons oil, 
salt to taste

Cut the okra / ladyfingers on a slant into medium size pieces. Deep fry in hot oil a little at a time for a few minutes. The okra should be cooked but still crunchy. Drain and keep aside 


 Heat oil in a pan and add the curry leaves and onions and fry till golden brown. Add the black pepper powder, salt, turmeric powder, and ginger garlic paste and sauté for a few minutes.
 Now add the fried okra / lady fingers and mix well. Cook on low heat for a few minutes to allow the Okra to absorb the flavours. Garnish with browned onions.

Tuesday, December 20, 2016

GINGER WINE otherwise known as OT or the OTHER THING























GINGER WINE – ALSO KNOWN AS THE OTHER THING

Homemade Ginger Wine is a must have during Christmas Time. Mildly hot and sweet, it is made by boiling sliced root ginger with sugar in water. Ginger Wine is a good digestive and helps to wash down all the rich food over Christmas
Ginger Wine is more of a cordial rather than a wine. It is also known as O T or ‘THE OTHER THING’  - the Temperance Drink for Teetotalers. In the days of prohibition during the war, people were advised to drink non-temperance wines. This Ginger wine is not fermented and non-alcoholic.  However, it could be fortified with the addition of a little Rum or Brandy if desired. It can be served cold as well as at room temperature.  It could also be added to lemonade or ginger beer if desired.

Ingredients 
100 grams fresh ginger                     
1 kg sugar
6 limes (extract the juice)                   
2 pieces cinnamon about one inch in length 
1 red chillie (remove the seeds)    (Kashmiri Chillie)       
4 litres water

Preparation

Peel and wash the ginger and cut into thin slices. Make lime juice and keep aside. 
In a large clean vessel, boil the fresh ginger, sugar, cinnamon and red chillies with 4 litres of water on low heat till the decoction is slightly thick. 
Remove from heat and add the lime juice. When cold, strain through a thin cloth, then bottle, and use whenever required. This wine will last for almost 3 months if kept in the fridge. 



Thursday, December 08, 2016

ANGLO-INDIAN CHRISTMAS DELICACIES - CHRISTMAS CAKE, CHRISTMAS PUDDING, MARZIPAN SWEETS, KALKALS, ETC



















ANGLO-INDIAN CHRISTMAS DELICACIES - CHRISTMAS CAKE, CHRISTMAS PUDDING, MARZIPAN SWEETS, KALKALS, ROSE COOKIES, DODOL, MATRIMONY SWEET, PLUM CAKE, ETC

Christmas cakes are the best place to start to get in the Christmas spirit nice and early. Christmas cakes are delicious if made in advance and fed with your chosen liquor gradually over the weeks leading up to Christmas. Most Anglo-Indian families have their own recipe for the Christmas Cake, which is usually handed down through generations. Candied fruit, plums, currants, raisins, orange peel etc are dexterously cut and soaked in Rum or Brandy a few weeks in advance.  Here is a recipe for Christmas Cake that I’ve been using for many years. It may not look very dark but its rich and tasty.

Ingredients:

500 grams refined flour or plain flour             
300 grams sugar
500 grams unsalted butter
100 grams black currants
100 grams raisins
100 grams sultanas
100 grams cherries
50 grams prunes
50 grams sliced almonds
50 grams chopped cashew nuts
100 grams chopped orange / lemon peel          
1 tablespoon zest of lemon or orange
¼ teaspoon salt                                          
½ teaspoon nutmeg powder
½ teaspoon cinnamon powder
4 eggs beaten well                                             
4 tablespoons milk (optional)
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla essence / extract
2 tablespoons Black Currant Jam or Orange Marmalade
2 tablespoons Black Treacle Syrup or Caramel Syrup (optional)

Preparation:
Chop all the fruit and nuts into very small pieces and soak in 2 or3 cups of rum

Heat the oven to 150°C
Remove the chopped fruit from the rum, drain and keep aside.
Sift the flour, baking powder, cinnamon powder, nutmeg powder and salt together.
Dust the orange / lemon peel and the chopped soaked fruit with a little flour.
Cream the butter and sugar well. Add the beaten eggs, treacle / Caramel syrup, vanilla essence, orange / lemon zest and mix well. Now add the Black Currant Jam / Marmalade, orange / lemon peel and chopped fruit. Slowly add the flour and mix gently till all the ingredients are combined well. If the mixture is too thick add a little milk.

Pour into a greased and papered baking tin or dish and bake in a slow oven (150°C ) for about one hour or more. (Check if cooked by inserting a tooth pick. If the tooth pick comes out clean, your cake is ready. Bake for some more time if still raw inside)
Remove from the oven when done and set aside to cool.

When the cake is completely cool, poke all over with tooth pick and drizzle brandy or rum all over the cake, (repeat once in every week or ten days). Wrap in foil paper, and store in an air tight container. This cake will last for months if stored in an air tight container.


2. MARZIPAN CANDY SWEETS
Marzipan Candy is one of the sweets made at Christmas time. It is made from ground almonds and is easy to make at home. The basic Marzipan candy can be eaten on its own or it could be flavored with dried fruits, dipped in chocolate, or formed into intricate decorations for cakes and pastries.
Makes 30 pieces    Preparation time 1 hour
Ingredients

250 grams almonds 
250 grams cashew nuts                   
250 grams sugar
300 grams icing sugar                 
2 egg whites
A little rose water for grinding     
¼ teaspoon almond essence
         

Grind the almonds and cashew nuts with the egg whites and rose water to a smooth paste. Transfer the paste into a heavy bottomed pan and add the sugar. Cook on low heat stirring all the time till the mixture forms a soft ball. Remove from heat and add the icing sugar. Divide the mixture into 3 parts and add a few drops of different food colour of your choice. Knead till it forms a dry ball. Divide the mixture into even sized balls and mould into different shapes.

3.KALKALS  (Fried sweetened balls of dough)
KALKALS or KULKULS are prepared all over India at Christmas time. It is a variant of ‘Filhoses Enroladas’ a Portuguese Christmas Sweet, Kalkals, (always referred to in the plural) are crunchy inch-long curled or shell shaped sweetened fried dough Sweets. Sugar and flour are combined with eggs, milk and butter to a soft dough and then small marble sized balls of this dough are rolled on the tines of a fork or a comb to form a shell or a scroll, then deep fried in hot oil. The dough can also be rolled out and cut into different shapes such as hearts, spades, diamonds etc with cutters or a knife and then deep fried in hot oil. The Kalkals / Kulkuls are later frosted or coated in hot melted sugar syrup.

Ingredients

I kg refined flour or maida                                       
6 eggs beaten well
2 cups thick coconut milk or 2 packs of coconut milk                
½ teaspoon salt                              
300 grams sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder             
Oil for deep frying

Mix the flour, salt, sugar and baking powder together. Add the coconut milk and eggs and knead to a soft dough. Keep aside for an hour. Form kalkals by taking small lumps of the dough and roll on the back of a fork or a wooden kalkal mould, to form a scroll. Alternately, roll out the dough and cut into fancy shapes with kalkal or cookie cutters. Heat oil in a deep pan and fry as many kalkals as possible at a time.
The Kalkals could be rolled in powdered sugar when still hot or frosted in sugar syrup when cold.

To frost the kalkals, melt 1 cup of sugar with ½ cup of water and when the sugar syrup crystallizes pour over the kalkals and mix well. Store the Kalkals in airtight boxes when cold.


4. SPECIAL CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING
The Christmas Pudding IS invariably made on Stir-up Sunday or the Sunday before the start of the Christian season of Advent which is the 4 weeks before the birth of Christ on Christmas Day. It is usually made in advance so as  to give it time to mature. The Pudding is served after dinner on Christmas Day. In the olden days making the Christmas Pudding was a family event where every member of the family would give the Christmas Pudding a stir and make a wish. A coin, a ring or a thimble were sometimes added to the pudding mixture and the person who got it in his / her piece of the pudding on Christmas day was supposed to be lucky. The finger ring would foretell a wedding to the person who got it.

CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING
Serves 6 Preparation time 1 hour
Ingredients

200 grams fresh bread crumbs                     
200 grams butter
2 teaspoons instant coffee (Nescafe or Bru) 
2 teaspoons golden syrup or date syrup
½ teaspoon baking powder                            
2 eggs beaten well
¼ cup rum                                                      
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and cloves
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg                           
100 grams chopped raisins
100 grams chopped black currants                       
100 grams mixed peel
½ teaspoon salt                                              
100 grams sugar

Cream the butter and sugar together then add the eggs and mix well. Gradually add all the other ingredients and mix well. Grease a Pudding Mould or any suitable bowl with butter. Pour the pudding mixture into it. Steam the pudding for about 1 hour on low heat either in a pressure cooker or a suitable pan or steamer till it is firm to touch.

Note:  This pudding can be made weeks in advance and refrigerated till required. Steam for 10 minute or microwave for 3 minutes before serving. For a more exotic taste, when still warm make a few small holes all over the pudding and pour about 6 tablespoons of rum over it

HOW TO FLAME YOUR CHRISTMAS PUDDING
The flaming of the pudding needs a steady hand and for safety reasons, should not be done by someone who has enjoyed too much wine.


Pour about 3 tablespoons of rum or brandy into a metal ladle or a deep spoon and carefully heat over a gas flame or lit candle till the liquor bursts into flame. Quickly pour the flaming  rum or brandy over the pudding and take it to the dinner table. Make sure the lights are out when taking it to the table for a grand entrance. Once the flames have subsided, serve with, cream or custard.